Motorcycle Jackets

A motorcycle jacket does two separate jobs, and the good ones do both: resist abrasion when you slide, and absorb impact when you hit. Those are different materials solving different problems, and the labels that describe them — garment CE class and armor CE level — are the specs to read before anything else.

The two big families are leather and textile. Leather has the best abrasion resistance per dollar and ages beautifully, but it is hot, heavy and poor in the rain. Textile (Cordura and similar) is lighter, cooler, waterproofable, and usually cheaper for the same protection tier — which is why most touring and commuting jackets are textile. Inside either, look for the armor: CE Level 1 is the baseline, CE Level 2 absorbs more energy. Shoulders and elbows should be armored out of the box; a back protector is often a slot you fill separately (and should).

Price tracks the armor coverage, the shell rating (EN 17092 Class AAA, AA or A), and the weatherproofing system. A $150 jacket gets you Level 1 shoulder/elbow armor and a decent shell; $300–$500 buys Level 2 armor, a back protector, a waterproof membrane and real ventilation. Summer mesh jackets trade abrasion coverage for airflow — a reasonable warm- weather compromise as long as the armor stays.

The mistake buyers make is treating a jacket as a fashion layer and skipping the back protector slot, or buying a mesh jacket for its looks and riding it in January. Match the jacket to your climate and your riding, insist on Level 2 armor if the budget allows, and read our CE armor levels guide so the labels mean something when you shop.